April 2011 - Shropshire
Our intrepid explorer Dave Mellor has been away again, this time sampling Salopian delights.
If considering a week's trip to a real ale and pub mecca it is advisable to have some sort of outline plan, but not too rigid to allow for meanderings and longer stop-offs, which may be influenced by places of interest and beer of course. A good local public transport system is a must, and also any knowledge that can be gleaned from a native beforehand. The GBG will tell you that Shropshire is a good bet for pubs of character and history and a wealth of breweries and beer range.
SHREWSBURY
The county town of Shrewsbury is the ideal base with 10 GBG listed pubs, plus as many again well worth a visit.
The Three Fishes in a quiet back street is an ideal pub to meet the locals and the landlord being very knowledgeable on real ale. The local Stonehouse Station bitter, Thornbridge Branta and White Swan were available plus Doom Bar and Snecklifter. Foodwise the specials are exceptionally good. Loggerheads is not to be missed with its small multi-roomed low beamed ceilings (as many of the pubs are) and its notice of Men Only until 1975 in the snug. Hobgoblin, Banks, Old Thumper & Bass here - probably a Marstons house. The Lion Hotel is a grand affair in every aspect with wide wooden stairways, large fireplaces, massive paintings and drapes. Having said that the welcome was very warm, the beer top notch - Wye valley Butty Bach and surprisingly inexpensive for these times at £2.80 a pint, this being about average for the area. Charles Darwin made his dash to London from here and Paganini played at the Lion; add to that Fenman's visit!
The Boat House Inn, naturally enough on the banks of the River Severn, affords grand views from the beer garden especially when coupled with Salopian's Darwins Origin and Wood's Shropshire Lad, and Lass. The Salopian Bar is a regular meeting place for the local CAMRA branch when they have trips out (how do they get 'em out on time?) and had a Pale Ale beer festival to celebrate being Shrewsbury & West Shropshire branch's Pub of the Year 2008, 09, and 11. Not for the anti-hop brigade but 8 beers in good nick all the same; Blue Monkey BG Sips a favourite along with Abbeydale Surreal Ale. Local branch members, one suitably bearded and suited but not sandaled, gave an all too familiar tale of older and fewer active members and the silent majority. Consequently no newsletter and a web site not really up to date.
The Armoury, by the riverside, is a large open plan pub with the accent on eating. However a good range of beers, slightly more expensive than the area average, are on with Hobsons Spire, Shires OB Joyful, York Williamette (yes Royal wedding one), 3 Tuns XXX, Salopian Gold, Wood's Shrop Lad, and Phoenix Bruning & Price specially brewed in Cheshire for the pub it said (well it's Gtr Manchester really). In the Admiral Benbow under 30s are served at the landlord's discretion. Fenman just sneaked in! 6 beers & 2 ciders. The Coach & Horses is an impressive wood panelled pub with an equally impressive range of beers - Shropshire Gold & Oracle, Stonehouse Station bitter, Dark Side of the Moose, and Slaters Supreme. A popular eating place so turn up early for food.
BRIDGENORTH & DISTRICT
Taking the bus to Bridgnorth there is no better destination than the Railwayman's Arms, especially if planning a trip on the Severn Valley Railway. This station side pub has the aptly named Bewdley Station Porter, 3 Tuns 1642, Coalport Dodger mild all a must, plus Shropshire Pride, Bathams, and Burton Bridge Stairway also on. Taking the SVR be sure to stop off at Bewedly (Worcs) and the Mug House, beside the Severn, where 5 beers were on including the local brewery's Worcestershire Way. Stop off also at Highley, the engine shed station, and visit the Ship Inn for Hobson's Town Crier and Banks mild. The next stop has to be Hampton Loade, where a short walk to the river and the pedestrian ferry for 75p will drift you to the River & Rail for Hobson's Twisted Spire.
LUDLOW
A mainline train from Shrewsbury to Ludlow is the quickest way of reaching the Charlton Arms which is perched high above the River Teme, and the Brains Milkwood Nut Brown ale is not to be missed, along with Butty Bach and Ludlow Gold. In town the Church Inn is a must not just for its range of local beer - Ludlow Bowling Well, Hobson's mild, Bishops Castle 6 Bells, etc but also for a visit to its upstairs room having a plethora of wall ornaments from musical instruments to brewery prints.
IRONBRIDGE
A trip to Ironbridge is not complete without a visit to Ironbridge Brewery on the River Severn where 6 beers are brewed including a mild at 5.5%.
All in all an area that has a grand selection of pubs and beers and requires at least a fortnight rather than a week to do it justice.
Dave Mellor